Himalaya Spring 2016: Teams Wrap Up Acclimatization Efforts, Schedule Starting to Clarify

There isn't a lot of news to report from the Himalaya today as most of the teams are holding in place and watching the weather closely. But as the season continues to evolve we're now starting to get a clearer sense of how the final weeks will unfold, and an idea of when we can expect summit bids to start on Everest.

At the moment, the majority of climbing teams on the South Side of Everest are in Base Camp, or headed that direction. For most, the acclimatization efforts are now wrapped up, and they've gone back to BC to rest and wait for a few things to fall into place. Those variables include getting the ropes fixed to the summit and waiting for a proper weather window, both of which are out of their control.

The hope was that the rope fixing duties would have wrapped up by today, but avalanches and unstable conditions above the Yellow Band have slowed progress some. The Sherpa team is now predicting that they'll have the lines in place all the way to the summit by Tuesday, May 10. After that, the teams will just wait for a few days of good weather to launch their summit bids. And since calm weather traditionally arrives right around May 15 each year, we can expect climbers to potentially be on the move at the end of next week.


Meanwhile, on the North Side in Tibet, the rope fixing duties were expected to wrap up yesterday. That means the teams are now clear to go to the summit when the weather window allows, although most of them are still wrapping up their final acclimatization rotations and are resting as well. That means they could end up being on a similar schedule as the South Side teams, which is fairly common as well.

This is a similar story on several other peaks throughout the Himalaya right now. Logistical operations are starting to wrap up and it is now the weather that will dictate the schedule. But at the moment, it looks like things will remain calm into the early part of next week. After that, it will be a very busy and active time in the mountains. For now though, we all wait.

On a final note, Welsh climber Richard Parks has been forced to end his Everest expedition for the season. Parks, who has summited the mountain in the past, had been taking part in a medical research project. The plan was to take blood samples at the summit with the hopes of understanding the impact of altitude on the body. While in Camp 2 yesterday he was diagnosed with an undisclosed medical condition, and was forced to go back down. He is now preparing to head back to Kathmandu and return home.

Video: Meet the Himalaya

Want an intimate look at the Himalaya Mountains and the people that live there? Than all you have to do is watch this film. It takes us to India, Nepal, and Tibet to show us just how spectacularly beautiful this part of the world truly is. But more than that, it shows us how beautiful the mountain people of the Himalaya are as well. This is a moving, touching, spectacular five-minute clip that you won't want to miss.

HIMALAYA from Berta Tilmantaitė on Vimeo.

Himalaya Spring 2016: North Side Route on Everest Could Open Today

As the spring climbing season on Everest continues we could reach a major milestone on the North Side of the mountain today, while on the South teams continue to wait and watch the weather forecasts. Summits pushes are still at least a week from getting underway, but we're nearing the endgame of a season that had to bring some sense of normalcy to the mountain, and so far it has done just that.

So far this year we haven't had a lot of news from the North Side of Everest in Tibet. That's mostly because there are fewer climbers there, and things have just been moving along about as smoothly as possible. The teams have been making regular acclimatization rotations, and for the most part there hasn't been any drama to speak of. Now, we get word that the ropes to the summit could be in place as early as today. On that side of Everest, the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association handles all of the installation of the ropes rather than the teams themselves, and according to their latest updates they say that they "hope to go to the summit on the 5th." Meaning that if all goes as expected, the work will be wrapped up today and the route to the summit will be complete.

With the summit open, the North Side teams will start to look at their schedules and weather forecasts to determine the best time to start a summit bid. Some of those teams are now wrapping up their acclimatization process, so they'll return to Base Camp to rest and regain their strength before starting up. But it won't be long now before they start thinking about the final push.


Meanwhile, on the South Side, the rope fixing efforts have reportedly stalled out after reaching 7900 meters (25,918 ft). Minor avalanches along the Lhotse Face have kept the team that handles those duties from going higher. The teams have organized the rope fixing work on the Nepali side of Everest, and it seems they had a meeting yesterday to start plan their strategy moving forward. The hope is that the weather will hold, and the avalanches will cease, in order to allow the rope-fixing Sherpas to finish the job.

The concern amongst expedition leaders on the South Side now is that the summit schedule could get backed up, or more teams will try to take advantage of a narrow weather window, causing traffic jams on summit day. But its too early to worry about that at this point, and for now the focus should be on getting the ropes in place and acclimatizing for impending summit bids.

Finally, we have no real update from Shishapangma regarding Ueli Steck and David Göttler's new route on that mountain. The duo are still in BC and waiting for a good weather window. But, there is more information on their plans. Ueli and David hope to make a direct ascent on Shisha, and then potentially make a traverse down the opposite side. The weather will dictate if that is possible, but it does give us an idea of these two talented mountaineers' plan for the days ahead.

That's all for now. More to come soon.

Himalaya Spring 2016: Summit Bid Launched on Manaslu, Fixed Ropes Update on Everest

The news from the Himalaya just keeps coming this spring as more teams continue to acclimatize on Everest and two climbers prepare for a difficult summit bid on Manaslu. Others are now waiting and watching the weather, hoping for a chance to launch attempts of their own.

We'll start with an update from Manaslu, where Peter Hamor and Horia Colibasanu have reportedly announced that they are leaving Base Camp today to start their summit bid on the 8163 meter (26,781 ft) mountain. The two men will now attempt to reach the top using the standard route, but will help complete their acclimatization prior to attempting a new route without the use of supplemental oxygen. The weather is said to be calm at the moment, and if everything goes according to plan, they should top out this weekend. After that, they'll drop back to BC for a rest before starting their second attempt later in the month.

Over on Everest, more teams, including the Adventure Consultants, have now reached Camp 3 as they continue to acclimatize ahead of eventual summit bids in just a couple of weeks time. Most of the climbers are now descending back to BC for a rest as they wait for Camp 4 to be full established and the fixed ropes to be installed. That process is proceeding, and reports indicate that the lines now reach above the Yellow Band, but bad weather higher on the mountain have stalled due to strong winds at higher altitudes.

Ueli Steck and David Göttler continue to wait for a proper weather window on Shishapangma. The two men have announced that their acclimatization process is done and they are simply waiting for the right time to start the climb. That could happen this weekend as well, although the two talented climbers are prepared to wait as long as necessary before starting their alpine style ascent along a new route.

Finally, there is news from Annapurna as well, were all of the 30 summiteers from this past weekend are now safely back in Base Camp, with most preparing to go home. While they were wrapping up their expeditions over the past few days, a group of 75 local villagers paid a visit to BC. They had just completed construction of a new trail that will cut down the time it takes to trek to the mountain, allowing climbers to get there in as little as three days. That should open up the region to more visitors and bring down the costs for trekking and climbing on Annapurna as well.

Himalaya Spring 2016: 5 Questions for Ueli Steck and David Göttler

One of the most interesting expeditions that is currently taking place in the Himalaya is Ueli Steck and David Göttler's attempt to summit Shishapangma along a new route. The two men made headlines over the weekend when they discovered the remains of Alex Lowe and David Bridges along the route they plan to ascend, but for those of us who have been watching their progress, there was other important news, namely that they have now completed their acclimatization and are simply waiting for a weather window before they begin their fast, alpine style ascent. Before that happens, German journalist Stefan Nestler has sent five questions to the dynamic duo as they wait in Base Camp, and their answers are very interesting indeed.

As usual, I won't spoil all of the questions and answers, but just tell you that Stefan asks some of the things we've all been wondering about, like which one of the two men is the most fit and the fastest. Both Ueli and David are known for being fleet of foot in the mountains, and they say that they are simply enjoying climbing with one another since they know the other is capable of staying with them throughout the expedition.

Stefan also asks them about their unusual acclimatization process (trail running in the Khumbu Valley), the current conditions on the mountain, details on the route they intend to climb, and about their experience in the region one year after the Nepali earthquake. As you can imagine, they have some good things to share on all of these topics. Of course, they are also eager to get started on the actual ascent, which hopefully can happen starting later this week.

Elsewhere, teams on Everest are now starting to retreat back to BC after rotations up to Camp 3 for a round of acclimatization. Despite the fact that there have been a lot of reports of avalanches on the mountain in recent days, it should be noted that there have been no injuries and the route has been repaired where ever these ice slides have occurred. In other words, the season is progressing about as smoothly and normally as it has in the past five years, with teams going about their business quickly and efficiently. If all goes according to plan, they should be ready to make summit bids – weather permitting – sometime around the middle of the month.

That's all for today. More news from the Himalaya as we get it.

Himalaya Spring 2016: Summits on Annapurna, Avalanches on Everest, and More

On top of the big news of the discovery of the remains of Alex Lowe and David Bridges on Shishapangma that broke this past weekend, there is quite a few other updates to share from the Himalaya today too. And with May now upon us, the season is rapidly slipping by with potential summit bids now just a few weeks away.

Over on Annapurna this weekend it was already summit day for a number of climbers. The first teams topped out on Saturday, with others following suit on Sunday. The weather was reportedly quite good, with low winds and great conditions on the summit. This followed days of less than ideal weather which had kept the climbers stuck in Base Camp, but once the forecast improved, they were on the move quickly, going from BC to Camp 4 over the course of two or three days. That put them in a position to top out over the weekend, with a good weather window holding long enough for everyone to get up and down safely.

All told, 30 climbers managed to reach the summit of Annapurna this past weekend, with 16 of those mountaineers being Nepali Sherpas. Amongst the foreign climbers were Aussie Chris Jensen Burke and Spaniard Carlos Soria, whom we've been following on expeditions for several years. For Soria, this was his 12th 8000-meter peak, and at the age of 77 he is now the oldest to ever summit the mountain.


Elsewhere on Everest the teams are back on schedule following the avalanche that took place last week, temporarily closing the Lhotse Face. Late last week there was also an ice collapse in the Khumbu Icefall which shut down operations through that crucial part of the ascent as well, but the Ice Doctors quickly fixed the route and had teams back on track once again. In fact, a number of teams have now spent time in Camp 3 and are back in BC following their rotation at altitude.

If the weather holds – and the forecasts look good at the moment – the Sherpa team that is charged with fixing ropes to the summit hopes to complete their work by the end of the week. If that happens, we should be on track to begin summit bids by May 15, weather permitting of course.

Alan Arnette has updated readers on his progress on Lhotse, and sadly his expedition has come to an end. You may recall that last week Alan shared the news that he was forced to turn back while climbing in the Khumbu Icefall due to a cough that was a sign of an upper respiratory infection. That cough turned into something worse a few days later when he made an acclimatization rotation up to Camp 2. In fact, the infection became dangerous and debilitating to the point that he had to be flown off the mountain from C2 by helicopter. He's now back in Kathmandu, starting his recovery, and preparing to head home.

Finally, over on Shishpangma, Ueli Steck and David Göttler are now preparing to make their summit push along a new route. The duo announced that their acclimatization process is complete, they've scouted the route thoroughly, and they are now ready to get going. They're simply waiting for the proper weather window to launch their bid, which could come as early as this week.

As you can see, things are really heating up at the moment with lots of activity taking place. We'll probably see it quiet down briefly as teams return to their Base Camps, rest up, and start watching the weather. The season is moving along at a steady pace, and things are going about as well as can be expected. So far, it has been a nice change of pace over the past couple of years, as it looks like things are getting back to "normal" on Everest.

The Remains of Alex Lowe and David Bridges Found on Shishapangma

There is a lot of news to report from the Himalaya over this past weekend, but I felt this story warranted its own post. One of the big stories to break over the past few days is that the remains of climbers Alex Lowe and David Bridges were discovered on Shishapangma more than 16 years after they went missing there.

Back in October of 1999, Lowe and Bridges – along with Conrad Anker – were part of an expedition to the 8027 meter (26,335 ft) mountain. The three men were scouting their route in anticipation of their ascent when an avalanche struck, sweeping Alex and David away in the process. Anker survived and was joined by other members of the team, who swept the face of the mountain for signs of their fallen comrades. They didn't find a trace of them.

Those of you familiar with this story know what happened next. Anker returned home, grieving for the loss of Lowe who was his best friend. He sought solace with Alex's widow Jenni, and the two eventually married with Conrad becoming the step father to the couple's son. In the years that have followed, Anker has gone on to be one of the most accomplished alpinists of his generation.


Last week, Ueli Steck and David Göttler were scouting a new route on Shishapangma in preparation of an alpine style ascent this spring. The two men – who are also highly accomplished climbers - discovered the remains of Lowe and Bridges, who was a talented cameraman sent to film the 1999 expedition.

The bodies of the two men were revealed as climate change has started to cause melting on Shishapangma. And while they haven't been conclusively identified as of yet, the gear from the era that they went missing, and the location of the bodies on the mountain, all point to bodies being Alex and David.

The discovery does bring a measure of closure to the families of the two climbers who are no doubt grieving again with revelation of the remains of Alex and David being uncovered. Our thoughts are with those who were close to the two men. Hopefully this discovery helps them to find a further measure of peace.

Himalaya Spring 2016: Annapurna Summit Push is On, Progress Elsewhere

It is safe to say that the spring climbing season in the Himalaya is now in full swing, with teams now focused on acclimatization and preparation for eventual summit bids. For the most part, it has been a relatively quiet season so far, which is a welcome change from the past few years when we've seen everything from brawls on Everest to tragic deaths to serious disagreements between climbers. But so far this year, there has been a sense of calm pervading the entire region, which could lead to a very successful return to form. 

We'll start today's update with news from Annapurna, where several teams are now on the move with the hope of topping out over the next few days. The plan is to reach Camp 4 tomorrow, spend a brief time resting there, and then launching the final push to the top. At the moment, the weather looks like it will be good, with winds dying off as they climb higher. If everything goes according to plan, they should complete the ascent on Sunday, May 1, most likely ending the season on Annapurna for the year. 

Over on Everest, a ladder was expected to be installed along the route up the Lhotse Face that was closed yesterday due to an ice collapse. That ladder will help the teams overcome this new obstacle in a safe fashion and allow them to continue on to Camp 3 as part of their acclimatization efforts. We're also told that the Sherpa team that is fixing ropes up the mountain is progressing nicely, and should finish their work all the way to the summit in the first week of May. After that, it'll just be a matter of when the teams are properly prepared for the altitude and a weather window opens to the summit. Most likely that will occur around the middle of May. 

On the Northside of Everest things are progressing as well, although at a bit slower pace. The Chinese-Tibetan team has started installing the ropes there and have now reached 7000 meters (22,965 ft), and by all accounts Base Camp is quiet, well maintained, and orderly. Teams are acclimatizing there as well, with the process continuing on schedule. 

Meanwhile, progress is being made on other mountains in the Himalaya as well. ExWeb is reporting that Sherpas have now established C1 on Dhaulagiri and are pressing forward with installing the ropes up to C2 as well. On Shishapangma, Ueli Steck and David Göttler are waiting out some high winds before proceeding upwards, but everything looks good at there at the moment. On Cho Oyu, teams are still arriving and getting settled, but one group has already reached Camp 2 at 7000 meters (22,965 ft), while on Makalu, the route up Makalu La has been installed up to C2 as well. 

Things aren't going quite as smoothly on Manaslu, where heavy snows are keeping teams grounded for now. Above Camp 1 – located at 5800 meters (19,028 ft) – the snow is said to be more than a meter and a half deep, and still falling. That has kept all climbers from going much higher than C1, which has hampered their efforts to acclimatize. As you can imagine, all of the teams are watching the forecasts closely, and working out plans to break trail to C2 and higher. 

We're in the part of the climbing season that is a bit of a grind for the teams. They still have lots of work to do before any eventual summit pushes, and there are lots of challenges to overcome before that happens. Still, things are going according to the plan for the most part, with progress being made across the region. In a few weeks time, we'll be reporting on serious summit pushes during a season that needs to come off safely and without controversy. 

Himalaya Spring 2016: News From Everest, Another Summit Window Opens on Annapurna

Yesterday was a busy – if solemn – one on Everest, as the climbing teams are now in the thick of their acclimatization process. Elsewhere, a similar story is unfolding on a number of other Himalayan peaks, while over on Annapurna the climbers are now eyeing another weather window that approaches in the next few days.

We've reached the mid-way point of the climbing season on Everest, where we get an excellent report on what is happening there via to Alan Arnette. He says that in some ways it is a very normal season on Everest this year, which is a relief considering the challenges of the past few seasons. But it is a quieter time in the Khumbu Valley as well, with about 15% fewer climbers on Everest, and about a 40% drop off in trekking across the region too. That means its fairly quiet there compared to years past.

Alan says that another major change on Everest this season is that the route through the Khumbu Icefall has been altered as well. In the past, climbers spent a lot of time in the Icefall, crossing upwards of 20 ladders as they made their way through this dangerous section of the mountain. But this year, there are just 7 ladders, as the route is shorter while avoiding some of the more dangerous overhanging seracs. The route might be more direct, but it is also more challenging too. Alan indicates that there is actually more climbing involved with passing through the Icefall this season, which is a departure from previous years as well.


As for Alan himself, he's in Nepal to climb Lhotse this season, but his acclimatization process has been slowed by an upper respiratory infection. He tells readers that his team is now on a mid-season rotation up to Camp 2 right now, but he was forced to return to Base Camp after developing a nasty cough. He's hoping to knock the illness out quickly and get back on track soon. With five weeks to go, he still has plenty of time to acclimatize ahead of an eventual summit bid.

Over on Shishapangma, Ueli Steck and David Göttler have now arrived in BC. They finished their trek to the mountain on Sunday and have spent the past couple of days getting settled and rested. The duo have traveled to the Himalaya to attempt a new route on this peak, which they hope to complete in a light and fast, alpine style ascent. They acclimatized in the Khumbu Valley before crossing the border into Tibet, and are now ready to start scouting the line that they intend to climb. It is likely that they'll spend a bit for time acclimatizing and watching the weather before they actually start their ascent.

Finally, the remaining teams on Annapurna are now gearing up for what looks like the next – and possibly final – summit bid of the season. Forecasts now indicate that the jet stream is now starting to move away from Nepal, and as a result winds are beginning to die down to a degree. It now appears that conditions could permit climbers to go for the summit this coming weekend or early next week, although the exact schedule is still in flux.

Time could be running out on Annapurna, where teams have been on the mountain for weeks already. The current strategy for this mountain – which is prone to avalanches – is to climb earlier in the season before it gets too warm there. We're approaching the point in the season when things will start to warm up, making it riskier to climb. With that in mind, most of the climbers are hoping to take advantage of the next weather window to nab the summit while they can. On top of that, a number of the alpinists are also planning on moving on to other peaks in the region, so they're eager to wrap-up their expeditions on Annapurna as well.

Things are really starting to ramp up now across the Himalaya. We're still several weeks away from summit attempts on Everest of course, but it is easy to see how things are unfolding at the moment. It's all about the acclimatization rotations and the weather right now, but things are proceeding about as well as expected at this point.

What's it Like to Climb Everest Without Oxygen?

For most climber hoping to summit the world's highest peak, donning a tank of oxygen is simply the only way to get to the top. Without supplemental oxygen, most of the more than 4000 people who have topped out on Everest wouldn't have made it, including Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who first climbed the mountain back in 1953. But it would be two other legendary climbers who would follow in their footsteps 25 years later who would show the mountaineering community that there was another way to scale the Big Hill, and n the process they shocked the world. 

Back in 1978 most people thought that the idea of climbing Everest without oxygen was ludicrous. In fact, there may have just been two men on the entire planet that thought it was possible. They were Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, who traveled to the North Side of the mountain that year to attempt the impossible. They faced a myriad of challenges along the way, including food poisoning, and winds that reached 125 mph (201 km/h), on top of the usual difficulties. And all of that came before their historic summit push without using bottled O's. 

National Geographic Adventure has shared a great story about that historic ascent, including a video of Messner recalling what it was like for them on that climb. Today, a summit without supplemental oxygen remains somewhat rare, but back in 1978 Messner and Habeler might as well have been going to the moon. But their success changed the face of modern mountaineering, to the point that there are some who now believe using oxygen on Everest takes away from the purity of the climb, and is almost a form of cheating. 

Read the story in its entirety here, and not only learn about Messner and Habeler's climb, but two other alpinists who are hoping to repeat the feat this year. 

Himalaya Spring 2016: Ueli Steck and David Goettler on Their Way to Shishapangma

It has been a busy week in the Himalaya, where teams have been on the move all week in preparation for the season ahead. That includes some well known figures in the mountaineering world who are on their way to Shishapangma, and the first climbers reaching the North Side of Everest as well.

One of the expeditions that we'll be watching very closely this spring is the attempt by Ueli Steck and David Göttler on Shishapangma. The duo plan on making a fast and light, alpine style ascent of the 8046 meter (26.397 ft) peak along an entirely new route. As is usual with these two men, the climb will likely be ground breaking and interesting to watch unfold.

Ueli and David spent a couple of weeks acclimatizing in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal before returning to Kathmandu last weekend. From there, they flew to Lhasa in Tibet and started the trek to Shishapangma a couple of days ago. They've now spotted the mountain, but are still a few days from reaching BC, where they'll briefly rest before they start scouting their new route. Once fully acclimatized and ready to go, they'll start looking for a weather window to launch their summit bid.

With the Tibetan border now open, and Chinese officials issuing climbing permits, teams have now started crossing over from Nepal to make their way to their respective summits. The first teams have started to arrive in Base Camp on the North Side of Everest, where they are now getting settled. More climbers are expected in BC over the weekend as that side of the mountain starts to ramp up operations. Unlike on the South Side in Nepal, teams can drive to EBC, although it still takes a couple of days to get there as they try to acclimatize along the way.

Over on Annapurna, the remaining teams are watching the weather forecasts closely. High winds kept them from reaching the summit last weekend, but a weather window is expected to open in the next few days. That means that climbers could be on the move as early as this weekend. We'll keep an eye on how things shake out over the next few days.

That's all for now. More next week I'm sure.

How Kilian Jornet Plans to Set a Speed Record on Everest

One of the expeditions to Everest that we'll be watching very closely this year is Kilian Jornet's attempt to set a new speed record on Everest. As an amazing mountain runner, Kilian has already set records for fast ascents of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Denali, and Aconcagua, but now he's taking his considerable skills to the Himalaya where he hopes to go to the summit of the tallest mountain on the planet in record time.

Recently the Spaniard sat down with Men's Journal to talk about his upcoming adventure. In that interview, Kilian talked about what he learned last year on Everest when the April 25 earthquake hit Nepal, bringing an abrupt end to the climbing seasons. He also talks about his biggest concerns for his upcoming return to the mountain, the gear he'll take with him on the summit attempt, and more.

Probably of the most interest to readers is Kilian's game plan for the upcoming expedition. He'll be climbing from the North Side of the mountain in Tibet, and hopes to ascend via either the Horbein or Norton couloir depending on conditions. He'll scout out the route ahead of time, and spend some time acclimatizing before making the attempt, with altitude and safety being amongst his biggest concerns.  As you would expect, he'll be going as fast and light as possible, and make the ascent without bottled oxygen.

As of this writing, Kilian has not left for the Himalaya yet, so it is unclear when he'll set out for Everest. Speculation has him traveling to Tibet this spring to attempt his climb, but in the Men's Journal interview Jornet says that he will be going at the end of the summer, which would indicate he's planning a fall attempt on the speed record. According to his social media, the ultrarunner is still in Europe, but he still has plenty of time to set out for the mountain and get ready for a late season summit attempt. We'll just have to keep an eye on his plans to see what happens. A lot of people have been waiting for Kilian to take a shot at the Big Hill, and hopefully we'll see him go for it soon.

10 Popular Myths About Everest

Everest will dominate the news from the outdoor adventure community over the next month and a half. Even now, teams continue to settle in Base Camp on both sides of the mountain, and are beginning their acclimatization rotations in preparation for the challenge of climbing the peak in the days to come. If all goes according to plan, and we manage to dodge the tragedies that have plagued the mountain the past two years, there will be very little reported about this year's expedition in the mainstream press.

But when those outlets do report on the mountain they often help to perpetuate myths that aren't necessarily true. With that in mind, German adventure sports writer Stefan Nestler shares 10 errors about Everest that continue to be shared with the general public.

Amongst the errors that Stefan looks to correct are the fact that Everest is a killer mountain. While it is true that people can and do die on Everest, it is relatively safe compared to some other 8000 meter peaks. He also dispels the myth that Everest is a garbage dumb, reminding us that teams now need to bring their trash down with them and that there have been considerable efforts to try to clean up the mountain in recent years. Similarly, he also addresses the idea that the world's highest peak is covered in corpses.

I won't give away everything on the list, but I will say that I agree with Stefan's assessment that these misconceptions about Everest continue to be held by many who don't understand mountaineering, the Everest climbing community, or the reason why anyone would want to climb in the first place.

Himalaya Spring 2016: Weather Window Slams Shut on Annapurna, No Summits

It was a tough weekend on Annapurna, where a number of teams had hoped to make a summit push amidst a narrow weather window. But that window proved to be shorter than expected and as a result no one managed to top out as planned.

On Friday, several climbers managed to reach Camp 4 at 7000 meters (22,965 ft) right on schedule.  After a brief rest in C4, they then set off for the summit that evening reaching as high as 7800 meters (25,590 ft) before high winds prevented them from going higher. This winds reportedly approached 60-70 km (37-43 mph), which is simply too strong and dangerous to allow anyone to press on to the top. All of the climbers turned back, and the majority of them have now safely returned to Base Camp while a few squads have rotated up to Camp 1 and 2 as they acclimatize.

According to Chris Jensen Burke, her team moved up to Camp 3 on this most recent summit push, but heavy snows at C2 slowed progress, and by the time they got to C3 it was becoming clear that the weather window was closing. Things were quiet at that point on the mountain, but higher up the winds were swirling dangerously. So, she and her group elected to abort their push and head back down.


Several teams are preparing to leave Annapurna today. Their resources and tie have run out, and now they must depart. But others remain, with Burke herself saying she has everything she needs to make one more attempt. That won't come until after April 22 though, as the weather forecasts now indicate that the high winds and snows will blow through than. After that, they hope to make another summit push. That would start late this week or next weekend.

Elsewhere in the Himalaya, teams are getting settled in their Base Camps and starting their acclimatization rotations. On the South Side of Everest and Lhotse, the first teams have now moved through the Khumbu Icefall and climbed up to Camp 1. On the North Side of Everest in Tibet, teams are just arriving and getting settled as well. Rope fixing is underway, but acclimatization efforts haven't fully launched just yet. That will change soon however as climbers go on the move.

That's it for today. More to come soon.

Himalaya Fall 2016: Everest Permit Denied to 12-Year Old

The age debate on Everest reared its ugly head again this week when 12-year old Tyler Armstrong of California was denied a permit to climb the mountain. Tyler had hoped to attempt the North Side of Everest in Tibet, but the Chinese government turned down his application that would have allowed him to try to become the youngest person to scale the world's highest peak.

China has recently imposed age limits on Everest, requiring mountaineers to be older than 18 and younger than 75 to attempt the climb. Tyler had hoped to get an exception to the rule based on his climbing experience. The young man has already summited Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Elbrus. Of course, none of them compares to Everest, which is thousands of feet higher than even Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya.

Tyler continues to focus on bagging each of the Seven Summits however, and says that he'll travel to Australia in August to climb Kosciusko, shortest and easiest of those mountains. For now, he'll continue to bide his time and wait for an opportunity to attempt Everest. Whether or not that will happen before his 18th birthday remains to be seen, but considering the current climate there, he may have to wait a few years to get his chance.


Meanwhile, teams have been filing into Base Camp on the South Side of Everest all week long. Mountaineering blogger Alan Arnette arrived a few days back as he prepares to summit Lhotse, as did the Adventure Consultant who were joined by Ed Viesturs for a visit. The Altitude Junkies are also in BC and held their Puja Ceremony today in preparation for the start of the climb.

By most reports, BC is quiet so far this year. More teams are arriving, so I'm sure it'll start to pick-up a bit over the next week or so. But since the number of climbers is down over previous years, it'll probably remain somewhat sedate throughout the season.

Over on Annapurna, the ropes are fixed and the teams are in place for a weekend summit push. The weather looks like it'll hold off for another day or two, so the time is right for an early season attempt on the top. I'll be keeping a close eye on those attempts, and hopefully we'll have news of successful summits over the next few days.

2016 to be a Quiet Season on Everest

The spring climbing season in the Himalaya is just now starting to unfold as teams move in and out of Kathmandu on their way to their respective base camps. At this point, there isn't a lot to report just yet, as very few teams have actually begun climbing operations, except for early expeditions on Annapurna. But one thing is becoming very clear, it i shaping up to be a quiet season on Everest, with fewer climbers then in recent memory.

According to a report from The Himalayan Times, 71 climbers, spread out across 10 teams, have applied for permits to attempt the world's highest mountain. Of those, 33 are reusing permits that were cancelled last year when the earthquake hit on April 25. Additionally, 31 climbers from 7 other teams have applied for permits to climb Mt Lhotse, Mt Nuptse and Mt Dhaulagiri as well, with two permits issued for Annapurna and Mt Scribing.

How does this compare to last year? The same article says that in 2015 there were 44 companies guiding 103 expeditions, with 801 climbers. So, as you can tell, there has been a dramatic drop for this year, although that shouldn't necessarily come as a big surprise. After disturbed expeditions in both 2014 and 2015, it seems likely that more than a few people have elected to stay away from the Himalaya to let things settle out, and wait for a sense of normalcy to return to the region.

It could be a few years before things begin to pick up again, which means that it'll be a very lean time for operators in the Himalaya. We've already heard that some will abandon Everest altogether, while others will likely struggle to stay afloat while they wait for climbers to return in larger numbers. That will happen eventually, but it could take a bit of time.

Keep in mind, there will be some climbers on the North Side of Everest this season as well, and there will probably be some late requests for permits that will bump these numbers up a bit. But for the most part, it seems like Base Camp on Everest will be very quiet this year. It also means we won't see massive traffic jams on summit day either, which should make it a safer place to be this spring.

Hopefully we won't see any more disruptions of climbing operations this season, nor any massive tragedies like the past two years. If that happens, we're likely to have more climbers return next year.

Himalaya 2016: Annapurna Summit Bid Delayed By Poor Weather

While I was off exploring California's wine country last week, things began to heat up in the Himalaya. Dozens of climbers have begun arriving in Kathmandu ahead of the start of the climbing season, with many now en route to various Base Camps, including on Everest and Lhotse. For most, the actual start of climbing is still a number of days off, but they are slowly but surely working towards getting themselves in place for the start of their respective expeditions. But on Annapurna, the teams have now been in place for several weeks, and some are already thinking about making early season summit bids, although as usual the weather is dictating when that might happen.

According to reports, as much a two meters (6 feet) of snow has dropped on the mountain over the past few days, which has resulted in teams staying in place in Base Camp. Right now, they're playing the waiting game as they watch the weather over the next few days to determine when they'll have a chance to move back up the mountain.

Australian climber Chris Jensen Burke says that none of the teams have been above Camp 3 yet, which means there is still some acclimatization to be done. And once the weather settles, the climbers will need to scout the route between C3 and C4 to assess the size of the crevasses there. That isn't likely to happen too soon though, as high winds are expected to buffet the mountain for the next few days too. After that, the teams will no doubt be on the move again.


Annapurna is notorious for its avalanche danger, and this fresh snow will likely create some concerns as well. The higher winds may help blow some of that fresh powder off the slopes, but the climbers will need to wait for things to settle before they start thinking about summit bids. While it is too early to predict when those attempts might start, it seems likely that it could be late this week, or early next before the teams are on the move again.

Fortunately, it is still very early in the season. Last year, 13 climbers managed to summit Annapurna in mid-April, well ahead of the traditional schedule. The theory was that if you climb early in the season, the temperatures will be colder which will keep avalanches at bay. It certainly proved to be a successful approach last year, and it could be the same this year too. Only time will tell.

With the Himalaya climbing season ramping up quickly, we'll be keeping a close eye on what's happening in Nepal and Tibet. It should be a very interesting season to watch unfold, particularly considering the challenges of the past two years. Stay tuned for more to come.

Himalaya Spring 2016: It's Departure Week!

Despite the fact that some teams are already climbing on Annapurna, this week will actually mark the official start of the spring climbing season in the Himalaya. As I write this, hundreds of climbers from across the globe are putting the last minute touches on their planning, packing, and organizing. For them, it is a busy, exiting time during which they are saying goodbye to friends and family, with the next stop being Kathmandu!

Most people don't realize it, but from the time they leave home, until they return post expedition, an Everest climb takes about two months to complete. This week, the the mountaineers will start arriving in Kathmandu, where they'll most likely spend a couple of days getting to know the other members of their team, organizing their gear, and preparing to head out to the Khumbu, or other regions of Nepal or Tibet. They'll probably go shopping in the Thamel district to get some last minute items, and they'll enjoy a few good meals before they depart for their respective mountains.

For those climbing Everest on the South Side, that means flying to Lukla, where they'll begin the trek to Base Camp. That trek alone will probably take them anywhere from 8-10 days depending on their objectives and how well they'll begin acclimatizing to the altitude.

Mountaineers heading to the Tibetan side of the mountain, the expedition will begin with a flight to Lhasa or a drive across the border. On the North Side of Everest it is possible to drive to Base Camp, although it still takes a few days to do so, as the gain in altitude is significant.

BC will be their home for the next 5-6 weeks as they start the acclimatization process in preparation for an eventual summit bid. But first, they'll make several rotations up to the higher camps, letting their bodies slowly become accustomed to the thin air. Once that process is complete, which typically comes around early to mid-May, they'll wait for a proper weather window to open that will give them access to the summit, which is when all of their hard work, patience, and persistence pays off at long last.

But that point is still along way off, and there is much to be done before anyone can think about going to the summit. As the last two years on Everest have shown us, a lot of unexpected things can happen over the course of the season. Hopefully this year things will be different however, and the climbers will see a sense of normalcy return to the world's highest peak.

To all my friends preparing to set off for Kathmandu this week, I'd just like to say good luck, stay safe, and enjoy the ride. This will no doubt be one of the most memorable and challenging times in your lives, but the rewards will be immeasurable. We'll be watching and following along closely in the weeks ahead, and we can't wait to see how it all plays out.

Let the new Himalaya climbing season begin!